Date : April 10, 2019
Don’t turn on the ignition or start the engine If you’ve put the wrong fuel in your car, don’t turn on the ignition or start the engine as this will circulate the contaminated fuel and increase the risk of expensive damage. If you have just accidentally put the wrong fuel in your car you’re not alone. At least 150,000 drivers put the wrong fuel in their car every year. That’s one every three and a half minutes. ‘Misfuelling’ seems to be associated particularly with growth in diesel car sales – modern diesels are so quiet it’s easy to forget you’re driving one, particularly if it’s a second family car or hire car. Potential damage Diesel fuel pumps operate on very fine tolerances and at very high pressures – modern systems run at between 350 and 1600 bar) – and are lubricated by the fuel. Petrol in diesel acts as a solvent, reducing lubrication, and can cause damage to the pump through metal to metal contact. Metal particles from the damaged pump can be deposited in the fuel causing further damage to the rest of the fuel system. Some fuel system seals can be affected by the compounds in petrol too. The further the contaminated fuel goes in the system the more expensive the repair. In some cases it can be cheaper to fit a new engine! Common rail (or HDi) diesel engines are particularly vulnerable – if fuel contaminated by pump wear debris gets as far as the common rail system you may have to replace the low and high-pressure fuel pumps, injectors, fuel rail, line filters and the fuel tank. Gasoline Direct Injection (GDI) petrol engines are particularly susceptible to damage too. Many cars have a low-pressure electric pump in the tank which starts to work as soon as the ignition is switched on, circulating contaminated fuel through the pump and rail, so it’s important not to turn the ignition on. Petrol in diesel Don’t turn on the ignition or start the car In line with car manufacturers’ recommendations, AA advice is that any diesel fuel contaminated with petrol should be removed from the tank and replaced with clean fuel before the ignition is turned on and the car started. Diesel in petrol Don’t turn on the ignition or start the car This is less common because the standard diesel nozzle is bigger than the filler neck on modern petrol cars. In line with car manufacturers’ recommendations, AA advice is that any petrol contaminated with diesel should be removed from the tank and replaced with clean fuel before the ignition is turned on and the car started. Call Us Now Chat Live Now Clients
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In the UK, every model of car has an Insurance Group Rating that helps insurance companies to calculate premiums. The groups are set by the Group Rating Panel, (made up of members from the Association of British Insurers and Lloyds Market Association) which meets every month. However, their ratings are purely advisory – insurance providers are free to consider their recommendations and still use their own ratings if they wish. At the moment, there are 20 different car Insurance Groups, so cars are rated between 1 and 20. A car that is in group 1 (such as a Fiat Panda or a Vauxhall Corsa) is considered one of lowest risks to insure and would attract the lowest premiums. Cars in the highest groups are those which are considered likely to cost insurance providers the most in claims. A high performance car (such as a Porsche 911) in group 20, would be in the highest premium band. Most family cars fall somewhere between group 6 and group 12. How are the group ratings calculated for each model of car? The major factors considered are the cost of spare parts and repairs – because that’s where more than half of insurance claim money is spent. But there are other factors: The cost of damage and parts – this is the most obvious factor; the lower the costs, the lower the group rating is likely to be. Repair times – longer repair times are more expensive and lead to a higher group rating. Foreign cars (i.e. those manufactured outside the UK) or more ‘exotic’ models therefore tend to have a higher rating. Different paint finishes can also contribute to a car’s placement in a higher group. New car values – the prices of new cars can be a useful indicator to replacement costs. A luxury model in the £25,000 price bracket is more likely to reside in a higher group than a family car costing less than £10,000 new. Body shells – the availability of the body shell (or basic frame) of the car is important because it is essential in many accidental damage repairs. Again foreign cars or non-standard cars are in the higher groups. Performance – the higher the performance and speed of the car, the more risk there is of theft or accident, which leads to a higher group rating. Car security – security features can reduce insurance claims, so standard fitted security features can lead to a lower group rating. The kind of features that can make a difference are high security door locks, glass etching, alarm systems and immobilisers, locking devices for wheels and visible Vehicle Identification Numbers. If you want to keep the cost of your car insurance premium down, choose a car with a low group rating. You can ask a dealer which models belong to which groups; consult car magazines, or do a search on the Association of British Insurers. Choosing a car from one of the lower rated groups may mean that your running costs are less too. Call Us Now Chat Live Now Clients
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Third Party The minimum level of cover you need to legally be able to drive on the roads is called ‘Third Party’. It used to be the cheapest type of insurance but now bizarrely fully comprehensive policies can often be cheaper. Never assume one costs less than the other; quote both. Third Party covers you for any damage you cause to another person’s vehicle and protection for any passengers in your car. Therefore, if you are in an accident and it is your fault, you will have to pay for any repairs to your own car yourself, as your insurance won’t cover it. It’s more expensive because it’s assumed you care less about your car and are therefore more likely to have an accident. It’s generally the most suitable for those… With cars worth less than £1000 Aged under 25 Without a no-claims bonus Or living in a high risk area Third Party Fire and Theft Third party fire and theft has the same level of cover as third party insurance. However, self evidently, it also has the additional cover of assistance if your car is stolen or is set on fire. Fully Comprehensive This is the widest level of cover but can be the cheapest. The big advantage is if you have an accident and it was your fault you will be able to claim the cost of repairing your own car as well as those of the other drivers. The cover also includes accidental damage and vandalism, for example if somebody causes damage to your car when it is parked in the street and they then drive off. Plus you’ll be able to drive hire cars or other people’s cars if you have their permission, although this will probably only be Third Party. Fully Comp is a good idea if your car is worth more than £1,500 and gets more important the more valuable you car is. Many insurers will only offer fully comprehensive cover for higher value cars anyway. There are a few ways of cutting the cost of fully-comprehensive cover, Tesco Value* insurance offers a comprehensive policy but limits the repairs to garages it has relationships with, which lowers the cost. However this doesn’t automatically make it cheapest, ensure you first use the comparison sites in the Cheapest Car Insurance article to check. Don’t think third party’s cheaper than comprehensive Counter logically lesser third-party policies often cost more than fully-comp. Why? Car insurance rates are set by actuaries, who’s job is to calculate risk. And it’s likely third-party buyers are on average a higher-risk group, perhaps as overall they care less about their cars, and so prices are pushed up. To illustrate this in one low risk driver quote, we found £290 for fully-comp compared to £406 third-party. Yet this isn’t a hard rule, third-party can win, but for price’s sake always check comprehensive out too. Good luck everyone! Call Us Now Chat Live Now Clients
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Car insurance prices are on the rise, with the AA reporting that the average driver is now paying £892 per year for a policy. This is an increase of 40% over the previous 12 months. These average prices mainly reflect the disproportionately high premiums offered to young and inexperienced motorists who are deemed to be a higher risk by insurance companies. However, with insurers becoming increasingly risk averse, it is convicted motorists who are on the receiving end of the largest financial penalties. Research revealed that motoring convictions can inflate car insurance quotes that are offered to motorists by up to 78%. We take a look at the impact that four common motoring convictions can have on car insurance quotes. The impact of speeding convictions Speeding offences are probably the most common type of conviction faced by motorists, with the licence points and financial penalties applied as a result relatively well known. However, it is car insurance companies who are responsible for the largest financial penalties, as a speed convictions could push up premiums by 54%. The average driver would then be paying £1,373.68 per year for car insurance, an increase of just over £480. Steve Sweeney, the head of Motor Insurance at MoneySupermarket.com, commented: ‘The cost of car insurance can be high enough, but added to that, speeding convictions can mean points on your licence and can potentially double your insurance premium, as well as landing you with a fine of up to £1,000.’ The impact of “driving without due care and attention” With technology becoming a more prevalent feature in our lives, it is therefore unsurprising that it is beginning to influence motorists. A survey conducted found that 61% of drivers have taken their eyes off the road due to audio devices such as iPods and CD players at some point, while a 23% admitted to making or receiving phone calls. Motorists who are found to be distracted in this way will be considered to be “driving without due care and attention”. This will result in a CD10 conviction which could increase car insurance premiums by up to 27%. For the average driver, this would add £240.84 to their premiums meaning that they would be paying £1132.84. The impact of drink driving convictions Drink driving commercials are common place on UK televisions, and have been for many years. Peak season for such offences is during the Christmas period when alcohol fuelled celebrations are prevalent. Motorists who are found to be drinking while under the influence of alcohol will be issued with a DR10 penalty which can have a devastating impact on car insurance premiums. Motorists with such a conviction to their name could see their premiums rise by a whopping 75%. This translates into a £669 increase, meaning that the average driver would be paying £1,561 rather than £892. Steve Sweeney explained that these increased premiums are fair in light of the dangers created by drink drivers: “Motorists who consume alcohol before getting behind the wheel will find that their reaction times, co-ordination and judgement will be impaired – making them a danger not only to themselves but also to other motorists and pedestrians. It’s not surprising that insurer’s take such a harsh view of those caught driving under the influence.” The impact of drug driving convictions A less commonly publicised issue over the years has been drug driving, but this doesn’t mean that it hasn’t be noted by authorities as a significant cause for concern. This has resulted in the trialling of new drug-driving detection technology where police take a mouth swab and analyse it for traces of illegal substances. It is expected that these techniques will be rolled out nationwide within the next two years. Drivers who are found to be driving while under the influence of drugs will be issued a DR80 penalty which research suggests would increase premiums by up to 78%. This would push up premiums by £695.76, meaning that the average driver would then be paying £1,587.76 over the course of the year for car insurance. Call Us Now Chat Live Now Clients
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The most important thing you can do to reduce the risk of breakdown is to get your car serviced to the manufacturer’s schedule and specification. Beyond regular servicing, the following simple checks will help you to enjoy safe, worry-free motoring. Tyres Know the correct tyre pressures for your car and check them at least every two weeks using a good-quality gauge or garage air line. Check tyre tread and condition – look for cuts on sidewalls. If anyone tyre needs regular top-ups, it may have a slow puncture. Don’t forget to check the spare as well. Toolkit Check the handbook for the location of the basic toolkit for the car that should contain at least a jack and wheel removal tools. Familiarise yourself with the jacking points used to lift the car safely. If locking wheel nuts are fitted make sure that the toolkit includes the key or removal tool. Engine oil Check the dipstick at least every fortnight and before any long journey. Have the oil and filter changed at recommended service intervals using oil of the correct specification. High oil consumption can indicate engine problems. Water Check the coolant level regularly and top up as necessary – but only when the engine is cold. Have the antifreeze concentration checked before winter. Antifreeze prevents the build-up of corrosion within the cooling system as well as stopping the coolant freezing so is important all year round. Wipers Wiper blades wear down over time and smear the windscreen if they become worn. Replace them at least once a year for best performance. Screenwash Check and top up regularly – it’s a legal requirement that the system works. Use a good screenwash additive through summer and winter – water alone won’t clear oily road grime and freezes more readily in winter. Windscreen Check regularly for stone damage as this can impair vision or distract attention. Minor chips can grow and crack the glass but many can be repaired by a windscreen specialist. Lights Check all lights weekly. Don’t forget indicators, brake and fog lights. Clean lights regularly. In bad weather wipe them over with a damp cloth during driving breaks. Power steering Ensure that the fluid reservoir is checked at every service, and check it yourself once a month. Top up only using the correct hydraulic fluid as advised in the car handbook. Bodywork Deal promptly with damage to bodywork to prevent rust setting in. Many cars have extended bodywork warranty schemes, which may require annual inspection at the dealer. Check that any previous owner has kept records up to date. Call Us Now Chat Live Now Clients
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It’s one of the most nerve-wracking exams you’ll ever do. So it’s no wonder people worry so much about the driving test. The huge costs involved, the time, pressure from friends, it all adds up and places a huge burden of expectation. Then there’s the knowledge one small slip up could ruin the whole thing and send you back to square one. No wonder people get so wound up about it. To help ease your worries we’ve been talking to a man in the know to get his top tips on how to pass first time. Gary Lamb is an instructor with BSM in central London and has been teaching people to drive for the last 22 years. So he knows a thing or two. He’s seen big changes in the way people learn to drive over the years but he knows better than anyone the best ways to improve your chances of bagging your licence on the first attempt. Tip 1: Stay cool! Having decided to take the plunge and get your driving licence you’ll be keen to get mobile as soon as possible. But patience is a virtue when it comes to learning to drive. “Don’t pressurise yourself when you start to learn,” advises Gary. “You’ll find there will be an awful lot of people telling you how quickly they did it,” he warns. “And that gives you the idea you want to be doing it a lot quicker than you actually need do.” Less haste more speed in other words – take the time to do it right and you stand a better chance of passing first time round. Tip 2: Get the basics Put simply, don’t learn on the job. “Give yourself the chance to understand how to manage the controls,” says Gary. “If you’re just about managing to control the car on the road it’s going to put pressure on you and you’re going to feel nervous.”So invest some time on private land with an understanding friend or parent and learn the basics. “Learning the clutch biting point, steering, getting used to exactly what the limitations of the brakes are – all this is really, really helpful,” says Gary. Not only will you be more confident on the road – you won’t be wasting valuable lessons learning the basics. Tip 3: Do your homework “You want to use your literature like your highway code, not just to pass the theory test but to understand what’s actually going on out on the roads,” advises Gary. “Nine times out of 10 people get inside the car and you spend 15 or 20 minutes refreshing their memory on what they were doing on the previous lesson.”Lessons cost a lot of money, so make sure you’re investing it wisely. “If you actually swotted a bit and understood you’d make better use of the lesson you’re actually having,” he says. “And that’s even after you’ve passed the theory test.” Tip 4: If in doubt, ask! Driving isn’t a one-size fits all activity, says Gary. “If you’re struggling with a certain technique or style you shouldn’t be afraid of asking the instructor if there’s another method because most instructors will have lots and lots of different techniques that they can use that can be tailoured to suit various individuals.”So if you can’t nail that reverse park no matter how many times you try or your steering seems to be all over the place just admit it and see if you can work it through with the instructor. It’s in their interests too and they know all the tricks to get you up and running! Tip 5: Drive on all types of roads Don’t confine yourself to the area around your local test centre. “Make sure you drive on all the different types of road before taking your test,” says Gary. “It’s one thing to actually be confident within one small comfort zone but driving is for life.”Variety is the key and though it’s tempting to learn every last inch of the test route in the end it won’t serve you well as a driver. “You need to be comfortable on all the different roads and at the various speeds so when you actually get the keys you’re not afraid to get in the car and drive it properly,” says Gary. Tip 6: Ignore the rumours “Try not to listen to horror stories,” says our man in the know. “A lot of the time people only talk about the test when they’ve failed.” He’s right too – when was the last time you heard someone talk about how they actually succeeded in their driving test?”When people have passed they don’t tend to volunteer information,” says Gary. “The test isn’t as bad as you think!” So don’t be put off by rumours of people failed for wearing the wrong clothes or nightmare examiners giving out dangerous faults for sneezing and instead put all your energy into learning the skills to pass. Tip 7: Do a mock test “Mock tests with another instructor are a good indicator of how independent you are on the variety of roads,” is Gary’s next pointer. “If you simulate the actual test itself you can see whether you can drive independently and also you get the chance to see what it’s like to drive with a stranger.”It also avoids costly – and basic – mistakes. “If someone comes to me to do a mock test it happens in exactly the way it would happen on the real test from – checking the licence right through to the eye sight test,” says Gary. “For example, if you turn up with just your card licence you’d fail in the real test.” Tip 8: Practice outside of lessons Lessons cost an awful lot of money and driving is as much about experience as anything so drive with parents or other suitably qualified people whenever possible. But there are provisos. “Private practise is good so long as the person you’re[…..]
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Exams are nerve-wracking at the best of times, and driving tests can feel particularly harrowing. After all, with written exams if you get something wrong you can always go back and cross it out, whereas if you reverse into a bollard on your practical test then your fate is sealed. Knowing that someone is watching and judging your every move can be pretty bizarre as well. It would be enough to make most people feel self-conscious if they were just carrying out an everyday task such as opening their post, let alone demonstrating a complex skill like driving. So if you’ve got your test coming up and you’re feeling anxious about it, then remember you’re not alone. Most people suffer from nerves to some extent and they can in fact be beneficial by raising your adrenaline levels and making you more alert. The challenge is keeping them under control. And getting it right first time is more expensive: the practical test now costs £62 and the theory is now £23. Here are the top 10 tips for overcoming your driving test nerves and passing your practical test. 1.Confidence Remind yourself that instructor wouldn’t be putting you in for your test if he or she didn’t think you were good enough. During your lessons you’re already driving at a standard where they consider you’re safe and responsible enough to be on your own. Now all you’ve got to do is to show the examiner what you’re capable of and that driving licence is all yours! 2. Visualise Tap into the power of visualisation and positive thinking – sports stars use it regularly to help them attain their peak performance. Spend time imagining yourself successfully carrying out difficult manoeuvres and dealing confidently with heavy traffic. This will reinforce the message to your subconscious mind that you can do these things and lessen the likelihood of you falling apart on your test. 3. Support Get support. Talking through any anxieties with friends, family and your instructor will help you feel more positive, and many of them will be able to give you useful advice and encouragement. Herbal remedies for nerves such as Kalms can be helpful – but you do have to start taking them a couple of weeks in advance to reap the full benefits. 4. Breathe Breathing exercises can be very useful – practicing them doesn’t have to involve sitting cross-legged in a room surrounded by burning incense. Just focusing on your in and out breaths will have a soothing effect – you might like to try counting the breaths, or focusing on a mantra such as ‘I feel calm’. 5. Flower power Many ex-learners put their success down to Bach Rescue Remedy. This is a new-age concoction of ‘flower essences’ developed by Dr Edward Bach, a Harley Street doctor and homeopath. It’s available from most health food shops and has a reputation for being very effective in stressful situations. 6. Eat a banana Shortly before your test, eat a banana. It’s well-known among instructors as the driving test superfood, for the following reasons – bananas are full of B vitamins, which help calm the nerves. They contain tryptophan, a type of protein that the body converts into seratonin, the ‘happy hormone’ – which will keep your mood upbeat. And they’re also high in potassium. When we are stressed our metabolic rate rises and potassium levels decrease. Eating a high-potassium snack like a banana will help rebalance the levels of this important mineral, normalise your heartbeat and send extra oxygen to the brain. 7. Distract yourself Sitting in the waiting room before your test is often the situation where people feel the most anxious. It’s a good idea to bring a book or magazine to distract yourself. If you’ve been practicing breathing exercises, this is an excellent time to get them going. And remind yourself that this is the worst bit – once you’re actually on your test you’ll be so busy concentrating on the road that your nerves will ease off. 8. Pretend to be a taxi If the thought of being tested freaks you out, stop thinking of it as a test – instead imagine that you’re taking someone home and as you don’t know where they live they have to give you directions. If you’ve failed your test through nerves several times, then the answer is to ask your instructor to get your driving above the standard required by the test. That way you can underperform due to anxiety on the day, but still be of a high enough standard to get that vital pass. GOOD LUCK EVERYONE! Call Us Now Chat Live Now Clients
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So, they say that you should have 47 hours of professional training and 20 hours driving with parents or guardians (remember you’ll need learner driver insurance for this). Based on average of £24 on average for a driving lesson, this means it will cost a whopping £1,128 to pass, excluding all the driving test fees and what have you. Picking the right driving instructors VITAL, but once you’d found him / her, how do you get the most out of the lessons. Introductory driving lessons Always always always ask about introductory driving lessons, remember you are hiring them and YOU expect excellent customer services. This way, you get to try them out and reduce risk of committing to someone long term. We don’t like dodgy driving instructors and good driving instructors will have no problem offering them to the learners. It also might be worth asking what Grade the driving instructor is and ask for proof, don’t worry if you sound cheeky, 6 is usually good and 1 would be poor. You need to be totally confident other risk changing driving instructors during the learning process, which isn’t good. Block Booking Now, I know not everyone can’t do this. But, it might be a good idea to save up to pay for all driving lessons THEN start learning to drive, because, you’ll get more for your money basically. In reality, you could save up to £2 per lesson, which might not seem a lot initially, but if you times that by the number of lessons required to pass on average, you’ll end up with £94. Not bad! Naturally, be wary of any instructor who is noticeably cheaper than others in your area as there have been bogus driving instructors who are not qualified to teach. The average cost of a lesson in the UK is around £24 (for one hour) so use this as a guide. Updates & Progress Most driving instructors will actually update you with how things are going. But some, will be happy with you just doing the same things each week. If you ask how you’re getting on, you could then develop on your weaker points in your parents car and be ready to move on next week with your instructor. Also, the Driver record is produced by the DVLA to help new drivers identify where they need to work on. It has the 24 key skills you need to learn for the practical driving test and can it be downloaded from the DVLA website. Another way to save money on driving lessons is to attend an intensive course where you spend anything from three to seven days doing nothing but learning to drive. These courses have their advantages, such as immersing you in driving, but some learners find it too much to take in all at once. Call Us Now Chat Live Now Clients
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1. Avoiding Certain Shoes Your brand new pair of Jimmy Choos or Gucci loafers might look fantastic but certain footwear is just not suitable for driving in. Even something as simple as changing gears could cause a serious accident in the wrong type of shoes. The sole of the foot can become trapped underneath the pedal whilst raising your foot to change gear. Wearing mules, flip-flops and other shoes without adequate ankle support can lead to the foot slipping off the pedal or missing the pedal altogether. High heels are not advised for similar reasons. These dangers can cause accidents if you don’t have enough time to recover the situation. A 2005 survey conducted by Norwich Union Motor Insurance in the UK found that flip-flops are the most dangerous item of driving footwear. Of the 1000 motorists questioned, three-quarters said that they found it challenging to drive in flip-flops, yet a quarter admitted to regularly driving in them. 2. Taking Medicines Many people in the UK have to take over-the-counter remedies and prescription medication for a number of ailments – ranging from the serious to the not-so serious. And the truth is that not many of us would think twice about jumping into the car to pick up a prescription, pop the tablets once we get them and drive off on our merry way. But maybe we should as driving safety can often be compromised if you are on prescription medication and the UK police law on driving while on prescribed medication is strictly adhered to. 3. Driving When tired Driving to work while still half asleep is something that lots of us do every single morning, and many motorists will admit to driving when we think we might actually be too tired to do so safely. Most people don’t see it as a big issue and do it without a second thought, yet driving while tired is a serious problem that results in thousands of motoring accidents every single year. To drive a car you need to be alert, aware of what’s going on around you, and able to concentrate on what you are doing. If you are overly tired then you are unlikely to be able to drive to a standard necessary to keep yourself, pedestrians and other road users safe. Why is it so Dangerous? Fatigue reduces your reaction times and makes you far less able to do things that would usually come easily to you and despite how quickly you think you can react, it’s probably nowhere near the reality. Not to mention that if you choose to ignore the obvious risks of driving tired, then you could end up falling asleep at the wheel, which could leave you seriously injured or even killed. Of course you might escape injury yourself and kill another road user, leaving you facing criminal charges and a lifetime of ‘what if’s’. Call Us Now Chat Live Now Clients
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It became compulsory for motorists to wear a seat belt at all times when on the road in 1973. Designed to prevent the occupants from coming out of their seats and suffering secondary impacts, seatbelts marked a significant improvement in driver safety levels. This represented the start of the safety crusade, with other regulations such as the Euro NCAP tests being enforced on manufacturers subsequently. These steps have been very positive, with their having been less than 2,000 car related deaths in 2010 compared to the 5,500 who would die each year on average in the mid-1980s. Nevertheless, this is still far too many people and it shows that no one should get complacent about safety. However, a survey conducted found that 15% of motorists still regularly go without wearing a seat belt. We therefore take a detailed look at some statistics which prove how important seat belts are and chronicle the various regulations enforcing their usage which are in place in the UK. Statistics The Royal Society for the Prevention of Accidents (RoSPA) recently revealed that 370 people are killed each year as a result of failing to wear a seat belt while on the road. This was corroborated by Direct.gov.uk whose research indicated that a vehicle occupant in a 30 mph accident will face an impact between 35-60 greater in force than their own body weight with whatever is in front of them (i.e. steering wheel, glove box, seat of other passenger etc.). Conversely, the same research indicated that the chances of potential injury of even fatality would drop by 50% if a seat belt was correctly used. People are most likely to fail to wear a seat belt in the back of a car according to RoSPA, with 30% of people admitting to regularly committing this crime. However, this is not only endangering their own lives but also potentially the lives of occupants in the front of the vehicle. Seat belt laws Since 1973 it has been compulsory for people in the front of a vehicle to wear seat belts at all times while on the road; and this regulation has encompassed back seat passengers since 1991. Along with seat belts, children are also required to use booster seats when passengers in vehicles until they either reach a height of 135cms or 12 years of age, whichever of these milestones comes first. However, it is legally permissible not to wear a seat belt if: • You are reversing or supervising a learner driver who is reversing. This is due to the potential restriction which seat belts can cause to movement. • You are an appropriately licenced Taxi driver who is carrying paying passengers or ‘plying for hire’ • You are driving a delivery vehicle which is carrying goods and no more than 50 metres between shops. • You are an occupant in an emergency services vehicle (i.e. police car, fire engine etc) • You are investigating a fault in a trade vehicle. The only other time when it is permissible not to wear a seat belt is when a ‘Certificate of Exemption from Compulsory Seat Belt Wearing’ has been issued by a qualified doctor. There are no specific conditions which automatically results in this being issued, with each case having to be assessed individually by the doctor. However, the one precondition of this exemption is that the certificate must be kept in the vehicle at all times so that it can be shown to police if you happen to be pulled over. For car insurance purposes it is also required that you inform the insurer of this affliction and its consequences. What about classic cars? You are only required to use seat belts if your vehicle is equipped with them. This obviously rules out certain classic vehicles. However, you will not legally be able to carry children under the age of 3 in such vehicles and any children older than this will only be able to travel in one of the back seats. How to use a seat belt This might seem elementary, but too many people fail to take into account how easily the effectiveness of seat belts can be stifled. It is therefore vital that you take the time to ensure that there is no slack in your belt prior to setting off and that the belt is not twisted at any point. The seat belt should also go across the chest and over one of your shoulders. If you fail to take this advice, then you may as well not wear a seat belt at all; heavily increasing the likelihood of you being injured or even killed in an accident. Seat position is also important; with it suggested that you maintain a 25 centimetre gap between yourself and the steering wheel/dashboard; sitting any closer than this could result in the airbag actually doing more harm than good. In addition, make sure that the top of the head rest is level with the top of your ears and as close to your head as possible. Failing to do this could result in neck injuries in the event of an impact. If you are pregnant you will still be required to wear a seat belt unless you have been issued with a Certificate of Exemption from Compulsory Seat Belt Wearing by a doctor. According to the DVLA, seat belts reduce the possibility of doing harm to an unborn child in an accident by 70%. If you are pregnant you should therefore make sure that the lower strap is positioned under the bump and the belly button and across the hips, with the higher strap diagonally positioned between the breasts and around the side of the bump. Possible penalties Anyone who is caught by police failing to adhere to the stated seat belt regulations when in a mobile vehicle will be liable to pay a fine of up to £500. This penalty is also likely to be issued to the driver of the vehicle if[…..]
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Date : February 21, 2019
1. Avoid fiddling with radio or CD controls. If you don’t know your car’s stereo system well, sit down in the parked car and spend a half hour getting to learn it. Use your eyes at first, then practice changing the stations etc. with your hands while not looking. Practice until you can do this confidently and quickly. Another alternative is to only change stations or track when stationary at lights, parked etc. 2. Adjust the mirrors to your height and sight before you start the car. This can change from morning to evening, so you may need to adjust more than once a day. Often after a day’s work we sit lower than in the morning, from sheer exhaustion and this can reduce the effectiveness of our mirrors by an inch or more! Make sure that you can see things properly out of your mirrors before you drive off each time. 3. Avoid music or radio talk if it distracts you. If you need total quiet to concentrate, forgo the radio and just concentrate on driving. 4. Obey the signals and signs. Watch for indicators, stop signs and traffic lights all the time, not just when you know they are coming up. Avoid speeding up to beat the amber light unless you have no alternative but better than that, start concentrating on the traffic light sequence well before you reach it, so that you can slow down gently. 5. Be conscious of possible problems. Driving is about anything happening any time and you need to remain alert to the possibilities. It is really important to anticipate possibilities – this does not mean the same thing as assume – it means that you must anticipate what might happen next. For example, you see a driver’s head in front of you turn one way but they haven’t used the indicator. Be prepared for their sudden slowing down and turning because you read their body movement. People forget signalling sometimes and it is wise to be prepared. Anticipate light changes, congestion impacts (driving too close can result in rear-ending during traffic jams), turning vehicles, wide vehicles needing more space, emergency vehicles needing to pass through etc. 6. Avoid talking too much. Talk is distracting. If you feel that your passengers are going to be insulted by your silence, tell them you don’t mind them talking among themselves but you can’t answer because you are concentrating on driving. This is especially important in congested, peak hour traffic when you are tired. 7. Avoid eating or drinking. Many colliions occur as a result of reaching for food or drink when driving. And the activity of doing either often requires one less hand on the wheel. Drinking can cause you to put your head back and your eyes don’t focus on the road. Pull over, or wait for a stationary place before attempting either action. 8. Be confident about your driving. A confident driver is more likely to pay attention because he or she knows the limits and strengths of the vehicle under their control. And remember that – the vehicle is under your control. It doesn’t drive itself; you are the one wholly responsible. Call Us Now Chat Live Now Clients
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Date : January 30, 2019
Here’s a few general tips when buying car insurance. 1. Don’t lie Don’t even be economical with the truth. It might result in a cheaper insurance quote now, but if you ever need to make a claim and they discover that your 1.6 litre car actually has a 2.0 litre engine, your insurance will be voided and that’ll be all she wrote. It’s a lot more difficult to lie about the car now though as most insurance companies require the VIN before they’ll quote you. Even so, lying about occupation, address – any of the other influencing factors could ultimately end up very badly, because if you lie well enough, you’ll be slapped with a fraud charge as well as having to pay for your accident and resulting claim. That Would Be Bad. 2. Beware of the deductible. Your deductible has a huge bearing on how much you pay for your car insurance. It’s the amount below which the insurance company won’t pay out. For example a £250 deductible means that any claim below that value is your responsibility. For any claim higher than that value, you pay the deductible and the insurance company pays the rest. A higher deductible means more out-of-pocket expense in the event of a claim but cheaper insurance. Conversely a lower deductible means less out-of-pocket expense in the event of a claim but more expensive insurance. This is because the lower deductible is putting more cost responsibility on the insurance company. So weigh up your options and if you think you can afford to cover a £500 claim out of your own cash, put that in as the deductible and your premium will plummet. 3. Don’t hammer the phones or web for quotes. Sure you want to compare car insurance quotes but each time you phone a company up or apply through their website to get a quote, they will ding your credit report with a query. Too many queries and your credit score goes down. As little as this should matter to the cost of your insurance, if your credit score goes down, your car insurance goes up. To compare quotes without affecting your credit rating, you can use a car insurance comparison website as these compare quotes from a panel of insurance companies in a single search. 4. Just because you’re renewing doesn’t mean it’s the cheapest. Check your premium with a couple of other companies each time you come to renew. Don’t assume your current premium is still the cheapest. More often than not, the same company will gently increase existing customer’s premiums to cover the cost of discounted offers for first-time-buyers. Call your insurer and you might be able to talk about moving to a different company; often you’ll be put through to a customer retention specialist who will have access to better deals than the first-tier phone operators. From there you might have a bargaining chip. Be careful though – if they call your bluff, you might price yourself out of the market. 5. Do you live in the same place – for insurance purposes I mean? Ask about address re-regioning, re-zoning or re-allocation. Companies often re-allocate their risk boundaries and consequently their customer’s addresses. They typically won’t tell you if the premium has changed unless you ask. Of course this could also mean your car insurance has gone up, not down. 6. Multiple policies gives multiple discounts Most insurance companies will give you additional discounts if you have more than one policy with them. For example if you have your home and car insured with them, both will be discounted by some amount. You need to do some homework here because if you find cheaper car insurance quotes elsewhere and move to another company, any discount you were getting on your home insurance will vanish and that premium will go up. Did you save enough with the new car insurance company to cover the increased premium for your house at the old one? 7. When multiple policies DON’T give multiple discounts Insurance is a strange business. I used to have my house, car and bike insurance all with one company. When we got a second car, they wanted nearly double the premium for it. I shopped around and ended up with a web insurance company. Figuring they had a good deal, I asked about my motorbike and for that they were three times more expensive than the old lot. Long story short – car and house are with the new company. Bike is still with the old company. I’ve no idea why there are such discrepancies but it always pays to shop around. 8. Modified car doesn’t necessarily mean high premiums Typically, if you modify anything on your car, most insurance companies will jack the rate up. At the time of writing there was at least one insurer in the UK who had seen the light. Adrian Flux Insurance were quoted in Max Power magazine in 2008 as giving slightly lower premiums to people with heavily modified cars. Their rationale? If you’ve poured money into your ride to customise it, there’s a good chance you’re going to take more care of it than Joe Average with his crappy Vauxhall Astra / Geo Metro (delete depending on country). In July 2009 they confirmed this with statistics showing that modified car drivers are 20% less likely to be in an accident. 9. Alarms and physical locks In England, discounts are still given on car insurance if you have a Thatcham-approved alarm fitted. This is an alarm system tested by the Thatcham labs to determine its effectiveness. The problem is that most people are oblivious to car alarms going off now. At most, they’re a deterrant. The truth of the matter is that if you have a desirable car, an organised gang can have it on a boat out of the country before you even know it’s gone. This happens a lot to high end Mercedes, Rolls Royce, Range Rovers and[…..]
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Date : January 29, 2019
For many motorcyclists, winter signals the end of the riding season. Some send their beloved bikes into hibernation, having thoroughly coated them in grease, tarpaulin and the bitter sweet tears of farewell, whilst others just leave them to rust on the roadside like sorry heaps of hopelessness. As we’re all aware, motorcyclists are already at risk on the road. Although they take up the smallest modicum of traffic, they are involved in the most road traffic accidents. This is particularly the case when winter descends and, as Lord Eddard Stark keeps reminding us, winter is coming. Therefore, come the New Year, don’t be the dude who forgets to renew his motorbike insurance who doesn’t dress appropriately for the change in season and who ends ups eating asphalt on black ice. But, what is the best way to keep warm and focused on the road? After all, it’s incredibly difficult to concentrate if you aren’t properly prepared. Winter brings the frozen visor, obscuring the view with every exhalation. A lack of thermal gloves (and underwear) will lead to numb fingers (and bums), as will exposed midriffs – or any unprotected flesh for that matter (that little gap between your glove and sleeve? That gap will freeze over after ten minutes on the road, true story). Dressing for the winter months needs to be conducted with military precision and in all seriousness, the human body tires a lot quicker when it’s cold, which could lead to slower reaction times and a poor judgement of hazards. So for those who are determined to stay on the road this season, here’s our comprehensive guide to the best winter gear available, to ensure that you stay safe and warm whatever the weather. The Leather All-in-One It might be the most expensive item of clothing you ever invest in (£500-£1000 or thereabouts), but it’ll also be the most beneficial. Waterproof (in some cases), aerodynamic and wind resistant, the leather one-piece is a no-brainer for winter bikers, not to mention the fact it’ll improve with age and eventually hug the contours of your buttocks like a loyal lover. The Anti-fog Visor An anti-fog visor can be fitted into your current helmet, acting as a self-clearing screen that ensures you never have to put up with impaired visibility again. The plastic visor is optical in quality, meaning the crystal clear transparency will make you forget you’re even wearing a helmet. Not only that, but Pinlock visors are available in clear, yellow and light or dark tints, meaning you can match your specs to your leathers. Dreamy. Still not convinced of their anti-fog abilities? We held one over a freshly brewed cup of tea and guess what? Not one mark – even the condensation was quickly cleared up by a super absorbent insert. Demystifying! The Balaklava Long stigmatised as the key garment in a robber’s wardrobe, the humble Balaklava is an extremely effective face warmer. Yes, it might look at little silly at first, but you’re putting a helmet over it for god’s sake! And in truth, there’s nothing quite as painful as frozen little ears (and in my opinion, nothing quite as cool as a beard balaklava). The Hi Viz Dress like an authoritative lolly pop lady and be seen on the road. This is one of the most important aspects of any biking ensemble, come sunshine or snow. Poor visibility is a major factor in motorcycle accidents, so don’t deck yourself out in black like the headless horseman, or you may end up sharing some nasty similarities with the aforementioned villain. There’s plenty of hi viz gear online and some of it is pretty inexpensive, so shop around and think neon. The Thermal Undies Get your long johns out and thank the day you made such a wise investment. Seriously, if you team thermal underwear (from top to bottom) with a leather all-in-one, you will be as snug as a bug in a rug. Plus, you can save money on the central heating by wearing them in bed! The Hot Grip That’s right, self-heating handle bars. Halleluiah, there is a god! These beauties will your keep your hands warm throughout winter, plus they’re water proof (they’d be pretty useless if not) and have great grip control. Although this might seem excessive when you can just wear a good pair of gloves, these warm little handles of hope will become a great comfort during long, wet winter journeys. Call Us Now Chat Live Now Clients
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Cars make us irrational. We call them our babies and lovingly wash them every Saturday — or we turn up the radio to drown out the sound of a dragging muffler. Either mindset will cost you money, sometimes a lot of it. Walking the line between obsession and neglect means you never spend a penny without a good reason — and good reasons can include spending money on something that’s not broken. Here, then, are 20 ways you waste money on your car. 1. Premium fuel instead of regular. Buy the cheapest fuel that doesn’t make your car engine knock. All octane does is prevent knock; a grade higher than the maker of your car recommends is not a “treat.” 2. 3,000-mile oil changes. Manufacturers typically suggest 5,000 miles, 7,500 miles or even longer intervals between oil changes (many car markers now include oil-life monitors that tell you when the oil is dirty — sometimes as long as 15,000 miles.) There may be two recommendations for oil-change intervals: one for normal driving and one for hard use. If you live in a cold climate, take mostly very short trips, tow a trailer or have a high-revving, high-performance engine, use the more aggressive schedule. If you seldom drive your car, go by the calendar rather than your odometer. 3. Taking false economies. Better to replace a timing belt on the manufacturer’s schedule than to have it break somewhere. Better to pop for snow tyres than to ride that low-profile rubber right into a tree. 4. Using the dealer’s maintenance schedule instead of the factory’s. Of course he thinks you should have a major tune-up every 30,000 miles. Most of the tasks that we generally think of under the heading of “tune-up” are now handled electronically. Stick to the manufacturer’s schedule unless your car is not running well. If your engine doesn’t “miss” – skip a beat or make other odd noises — don’t change the spark plugs or wires until the manufacturer says so. 5. Using a dealer for major services. Independent shops almost always will do the same work much cheaper. Call around, owner’s manual in hand, to find out, mindful that the quality of the work is more of a question mark. Some dealers may tell you using outside garages violates the car’s warranty. This is a lie. 6. Using a dealer for oil changes. Dealers sometimes run dirt-cheap specials, but otherwise you’ll usually find changes cheaper elsewhere. If you’re using an independent shop for the first time, you might inconspicuously mark your old oil filter to make sure it has indeed been changed. And don’t let them talk you into new wiper blades, new air filters or high-priced synthetic oil, unless your car is one of the few high-performance machines built for it. 7. Not replacing your air filter and wiper blades yourself. Buy them on sale at a discount auto-parts store rather than having a local garage or dealer replace them. Replacement is simple for either part, a 5-minute job. A good schedule for new air filters is every other oil change in a dusty climate; elsewhere at least once every 20,000 miles. Treat yourself to new wipers (it’s easiest to buy the whole blade, not the refill) once a year. 8. Going to any old repair shop. Estimates must include a provision that no extra work will be done without your approval. Drive your car to make sure the problem is fixed before you pay. Pay with a credit card in case there’s a dispute later. Be courteous and pay attention. A good mechanic is hard to find. 9. Changing your antifreeze every winter. Change it only when a hydrometer suggests it will no longer withstand temperatures 30 degrees below the coldest your area sees in winter. Your dealer or oil-change shop should be happy to check it for free. Every two years is about right. But you also should keep your cooling system happy by running the air conditioner every few weeks in winter to keep it lubricated, checking for puddles underneath the car and replacing belts and hoses before they dry and crack. 10. Replacing tyres when you should be replacing shocks. If your tyres are wearing unevenly or peculiarly, your car may be out of alignment or your shocks or struts worn out. 11. Letting a brake squeal turn into a brake job. Squeal doesn’t necessarily mean you need new rotors or pads; mostly, it’s just annoying. Your first check — you can probably see your front brakes through the wheels on your car — is to look at the thickness of the pads. Pads thicker than a quarter-inch are probably fine. If your brakes emit a constant, high-pitched whine and the pads are thinner than a quarter-inch, replace them. If your car shimmies or you feel grinding through the pedal, then your brake rotors need to be turned or replaced. 12. Not complaining when your warranty claim is rejected. Manufacturers often will repair known defects outside the warranty period (sometimes called a secret warranty). It helps if you’ve done your homework and haven’t been a jerk. 13. Not keeping records. A logbook of every repair done to your car can help you decide if something’s seriously out of whack. Didn’t I just buy new brake pads? With a log and an envelope stuffed with receipts, you’ll know who did the work and when, and whether or not there’s a warranty on the repair. And a service logbook helps at resale time, too. 14. Buying an extended warranty. Most manufacturers allow you to wait until just before the regular warranty expires to decide. By then you should know whether your car is troublesome enough to require the extended warranty. Most of them aren’t worth the price. 15. Assuming the problem is major. If your car is overheating but you don’t see a busted hose or lots of steam, it might be the £15 thermostat, not your radiator. Or it may be that[…..]
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The first thing you need to ask yourself when you set out to replace / buy your first car is whether you actually need to buy a new one. • Depreciation is the single biggest cost in running a car. Even if you only buy a one-year-old model, you’ll be missing out on some seriously large losses as the biggest drop comes in the first 12 months. • Look at the sums, and you might be able to buy a better equipped, more powerful version of the model you want by opting for a used model. You might even be able to upgrade a whole class thanks to big second-hand savings. • Our reliability and owner-satisfaction reports can show you which models are proving robust and which are proving disappointing. Pick one of the best, and there’s no reason to think you’ll be left stranded by the roadside just because you bought second-hand. • Even if the car you’re looking at is more than three years old, it doesn’t mean it can’t be protected by a warranty. Most approved-used schemes will provide 12 months of cover, and you can always take out your own policy with an independent provider for a few hundred pounds. • If you’ve got the budget and you’re determined to buy new, haggle hard. Use the What Car? Target Price to find out the kind of discounts that you should be able to get on any new car, and you’ll offset some of those nasty depreciation losses. • A new car will also obviously come with the full balance of the manufacturer’s warranty, which repairs many faults free of charge. This will usually give you three years’ peace of mind but it can be as long as seven if you opt for a Kia. • Special offers such as interest-free finance are most commonly attached to new cars, so this might be enough to convince you not to go down the used route. • A new car will be to your exact specification, and you can’t put a price on sitting in your own new car for the first time. Good luck everyone! Call Us Now Chat Live Now Clients
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It is natural – and potentially even helpful – to experience a certain amount of nerves as you approach the test. The examiner is expecting this and will make some allowance for it, although it will not excuse dangerous or serious mistakes. The best way to beat nerves is to be confident in your own ability. As such, the first thing you need to ensure is that you are actually ready to take the test. Insufficient preparation is the other principal cause of failure and it will have a bearing on your confidence going into the test. Your driving instructor is best placed to judge whether or not you are ready to take the practical test. Don’t go against their advice, even if you suspect they merely wish to retain your custom. In the vast majority of cases this will not be true, and you will probably save money in the long run by waiting until you are deemed to have a realistic prospect of passing. When you have developed sufficient confidence in your driving ability, make a test appointment early in the day. This will ensure you have less time to get worked up. Don’t pay any attention, however, to myths about daily pass quotas or people only passing on a Monday etc. These are entirely untrue. Try to make sure the test date does not clash with other stressful events such as school exams or wedding preparations, and don’t let your friends know when you’ve got your test as this will only create additional pressure. Turn to parents or other family members for support. In the week before the test Get as much practice as possible. Book extra lessons with your driving instructor. In your final sessions, ask the instructor to concentrate on the manoeuvres you find most tricky. Complete at least one ‘mock test’ in which your instructor ensures that conditions are as realistic as possible, providing a full debrief at the end of the session. Don’t listen to the advice of your friends / family. They doubtless mean well, but their instructions may be confusing, misguided or otherwise unhelpful. Remember that your driving instructor has years of experience as well as a professional training. Ignore driving test horror stories. There are hundreds of them doing the rounds. A couple may even be true. On the day before the test Don’t drink any large amounts of alcohol Get a good night’s sleep Get all the required documents together so that you are not rushing around looking for them just before you leave for the driving test centre. Make sure you know how to get to the driving test centre. Do a practice run if necessary. Plan what time you are going to get up, eat, leave home etc the following day. On the day of the test Think positively from the moment you wake up. Tell yourself that you are going to get through the day calmly. Eat light meals at your normal mealtimes and ensure you get your regular fluid intake. Even if your test is early in the morning, it is important to have a good breakfast in order to boost your concentration levels. Try not to over eat, however, as this may make you uncomfortable or lethargic. Wear clothes that make you feel as comfortable as possible. Try not to think too much about the test until it is time to leave. Take the telephone off the hook or switch your mobile phone off and pre-occupy yourself with something else. Don’t take pills to calm your nerves. They are likely to slow your reactions and negatively affect your performance. Do not drink any alcohol Leave for the test centre in plenty of time, allowing for the possibility of heavy traffic etc. You need to be there at least 10 minutes before your scheduled appointment time or you risk the test being cancelled. On the hour before the test Concentrate on the matter in hand. Think about the test route you will be following and the important points you need to concentrate on. Use visualization techniques to practice driving in your head. Picture yourself performing particular manoeuvres and focus on the points at which you need to turn the wheel, change gear, apply the brakes etc. Listen to the last-minute advice of your instructor, and don’t be afraid to ask him or her for clarification / reassurance on any matter. If you are driving to the test centre, do so to the best of your ability. Maintain the accuracy and observation levels you have been taught so that you are properly ‘warmed-up’ by the time you come to take the test. Just before the test, take a few slow breaths to relax. Clench and relax your muscles to get rid of any tension. Tell yourself that you can do it! 32 million people hold full driving licenses in the UK. We’re sure you can too. During the test Remember that some nervousness is normal. It can increase your alertness and improve your performance. Don’t be intimidated by the examiner. He is merely a person doing a job. He is not a god and he will not be judging you as a person. He doesn’t want you to fail your test and he will not try to trick you at any stage. Don’t try to interact too much with the examiner. Silence is normal in the test car, and too much chit-chat could be distracting. Listen carefully to the examiner’s instructions. Ask for repetition / clarification if necessary and act in good time. Bear in mind that the examiner just wants to see how you would normally drive – nothing you don’t already know! Explain your decisions to the examiner if you feel you have done something that could be misjudged. If you come across a new situation, don’t rush in. Stay calm and assess things carefully before you proceed. Be prepared to change your decision if necessary. Take a deep breath and exhale slowly[…..]
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Learning to drive is not an easy task. It takes years of experience to master the art and be able to anticipate the likely actions of fellow motorists. This is something which many learner drivers simply don’t appreciate, and watching experienced drivers travelling around with apparent ease can therefore prove to be quite demoralising. Some people take longer than others to become competent enough to pass their driving test, so the key is to keep your chin up and to continue putting the effort in to build up experience and learn from your mistakes. Driving tests Perhaps you feel like giving up driving because you have recently failed your driving test. If this is the case, then don’t panic. There are over one million driving tests completed in the UK every single year, and over 60% of these end in failure. This is not an indication that you will never be capable of driving; simply serving as a means through which you can identify areas for improvement before taking their test again. It doesn’t matter how many attempts it takes you to pass because everyone learns at different rates. Regardless of whether it is your first, second or even your tenth driving test failure; with enough practice and effort you can still get to a position where you are competent enough to go it alone on the road. Practice makes perfect The DSA (Driving Standards Agency) recommends that learner drivers complete at last 47 hours of professional tuition, under the guidance of a fully qualified driving instructor, prior to taking their driving test. This doesn’t include private tuition time, with the DSA advising learners to complete at least 20 hours of driving with an experienced motorist prior to taking their test. However, the qualified driver offering guidance must be at least 21 year old and have 3 years of driving experience in order to make this legally permissible. If you are lucky enough to have an experienced driver to hand who is happy to help by offering guidance for your private tuition the better. Remember, the more time and effort you put into practicing your driving; the greater your chances of test success. Insurance a legal requirement However, even if there is someone you can rely on to sit alongside you when you are developing your skills; you still have to be able to afford to pay your insurance premiums. Regardless of whether you are driving a car which is owned by you or someone else, you still legally have to be either the main policy holder or a named driver on the insurance policy which covers the vehicle. Otherwise you will be driving illegal and liable for a court prosecution and a possible driving ban. Insurance can be costly; particularly for young and inexperienced motorists. However, there are still a number of things which can be done in order to bring down the cost of your premiums and make private practice a realistic proposition for the majority of motorists once more: Vehicle choice Apart from the driver, it is the car which will have the biggest impact on premiums. Vehicles which are considered to be statistically more likely to be either crashed or stolen will attract the most expensive premiums. It is therefore advised that you opt to learn in a vehicle which will be looked upon favourably by insurers. A good guide to this is car insurance groups according to a survey, with every vehicle in the UK assigned to a group numbered between 1 and 50 by insurers. It is advised that you opt for a car in the lowest group possible in order to obtain the cheapest premiums available to you. Modifications Although car insurance groups are a good guide to ultimate premiums; they can be distorted somewhat by non-manufacturer approved modifications. A modification is basically anything which results in a car deviating from its original design specification laid out by the manufacturer. Modifications which are considered to be performance or aesthetically enhancing such as the addition of spoilers or alloy wheels could well have a devastating impact on your premiums. However, security enhancing modifications such as the addition of alarms or immobilisers will be viewed positively by the insurer as they will reduce the statistical likelihood of the vehicle being stolen. Excess Excess is basically the amount of money you are willing to pay toward the cost of any repairs required on the back of a claim. Insurers will offer cheaper premiums to those who offer to pay a higher voluntary excess as their financial responsibility in the event of a claim will obviously be reduced. Named drivers If the learner is the main policy holder; then it would help to add more experienced motorists as named drivers on the policy as the insurer will assume that driving duties will be shared amongst all of those named on the policy. It would be even cheaper to have the more experienced driver as the main policy holder, but if the more experienced driver is not actually going to be the primary users of the vehicle then this will be considered to be insurance fraud. Call Us Now Chat Live Now Clients
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Apparently, it is scientifically proven that when speaking to someone in your car or in some cases on the mobile phone, the driver gets what is called ‘inattention blindness’. This basically means that even though your eyes are wide open, your brain is no longer receiving visual signals from your eyes and will simply stop seeing things in front of you, including pedestrians and other cars. Passenger conversations are just as costly as being on the phone and negative passengers do not add to your safety. Having said this, being on the phone meant you had a higher chance of being involved in a road traffic collision than anything else in regards to passengers. Below are some 3 main tips on dealing with negative passengers: 1. Don’t carry them If you know that you may be thrown slightly of guard by a specific passenger, ask them to make their own way to your destination, this way, you stay safe and reduce the chances of a road traffic collision. 2. Be vocal Some passengers may want the music extremely load in the car, something you may not like at all. Be vocal and voice your concerns, not everyone car drive safely with music blaring in the car. 3. Music If you are going to listen to music, AND, you have a negative passenger in the car, try to keep it calm and cool. Listening to crazy and up beat music will not help with your adrenaline. Call Us Now Chat Live Now Clients
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